And the wonders of that western frontier of Greece can be well appreciated at Paestum. If you want an area away from the station, Vomero is good but I'm not sure about prices (haven't stayed there in years). I loved Hotel Piazza Bellini, which was convenient to the archaeological museum. And in these sensory-deprived times, I find myself thinking back on happy memories in one of Italy's most vivid, most intense, and most sensory cities. Now more than ever, you can count on Rick Steves to tell you what you really need to know when traveling through Italy. Re: Whai is the best area to stay in Naples? Could you provide some indication on what price range you're considering? The town's celebrated San Michele Church has a remarkable majolica floor showing paradise on earth in a classic 18th-century Neapolitan style. Report inappropriate content 1-10 of 35 replies Sorted by New pieces go on sale as soon as they cool. And behind the Archaeological Museum is perhaps the most colorful district of all, Sanit. The Amalfi Coast is named for this town. The devil is wrapped around the trunk of a tree laden with trouble-causing apples. I finally booked a room near the port where the ferry arrives called the Rex Hotel that was fairly reasonable, had good reviews, and seemed like a safe area to walk around on my last night in Italy. This facility was very comfortable and well located for touring. We have heard that there a some areas that are not very safe for tourist. Southern Italy's leading city, Naples offers a fascinating collection of museums, churches, and eclectic architecture. It's less than a block from the Toledo subway station, and there is a good pizza restaurant (Alberto's Pizzeria) just around the corner.It's reasonable walking distance to many of the attractions- I spent two full days there and was able to walk to both the waterfront as well as Castel Sant'Elmo and the big museum at the top of the big hill among other sites. I still toured every museum, inspected every hotel, reconnected with old friends, and interacted with dozens of people each day. Leave your American expectations at home when you come to Naples and you'll be fine. An older man with a sloppy slice of pizza joins me. Ciao. A 1953 essay by John Steinbeck tipped off tourists to the town's charms, and by the '70s Positano had become a trendy stop, with the "Moda Positano" fashion trend a leisurely dolce vita lifestyle of sauntering barefoot in brightly colored clothes and skimpy bikinis enjoying a worldwide day in the sun. And yet, there I was, walking down the Spaccanapoli, surrounded by carefully masked Neapolitans. Innocuous as it looks today, in its 10th-century heyday, Amalfi was a maritime power. The rooms are nice, large and nicely equipped with amenities. This figure seemed to go up and down depending on which part of town I was in (perhaps the highest ratio was on a day trip to Cambridge). This tangled mess as intense an urban scene as anything you'll find in western Europe still somehow manages to breathe, laugh, and singwith a captivating Italian accent. Ristorante Delfino serves fish in big portions to hungry locals in a quiet and bright, Seattle-style pier restaurant. Anyone know it or can suggest safe place not too expensive. Capri, the largest of the island's two towns, sits in a saddle above the port. Only a small part of it has been dug up, but you can find some of its leftovers around town. The cooking, service, and setting are all top-notch. You'll see several medieval watch-towers built to warn of Turkish or Saracen pirate attacks. Imagine life here in the days of Caesar, with street-side shop fronts that close up to become private homes after dark. The traffic will stop. Rick: So literally low. Ask anyone to steer you to the neighborhood pizzeria. Thiis is a perfect location for exploring the culture and arts of Naples. They call this FFP2, but its equivalent to N95, KN95, and KF94 masks widely available in the US. Most of all, I came away with a confidence that you can have a safe and enjoyable trip in 2022, even as COVID sputters on. For expansive island views, ride the chairlift to the top of Monte Solaro Capri's 1,900 foot summit. You get to choose where to stay. I'll be on the Southern Italy tour ending in Naples in mid-October, and the tour hotel there is the Gran Hotel Oriente. Rick: Very nice. Masks are mandatory signs, still posted everywhere, were flagrantly disregarded by Londoners who knew that the rules had changed. Wearing my anthropologists hat, I asked around as to why Italians were taking this stuff so seriously. Tell me, what is Napoli in one word? I ask. I appreciate any suggestions that are fairly central and in a safer neighborhood. And from here, the hike down is a delight. Bright common areas, a small rooftop swimming pool, and a cold-water Jacuzzi complement 60 large, tiled, colorful rooms with views, some with balconies. Sicily Guidebook for 2023 | Rick Steves Travel Store To save a few steps, I enjoy the efficiency of having a cell phone on the road. 2023 Rick Steves' Europe, Inc. | CST# 2086743 | Morning breakfast was delish and offered all the regional foods and then some. Many people might have money to go away from here, but they still stay here. You can buy a cheap one here or bring one that works in Europe from home. Bye-bye. When dining indoors, Italians diligently masked up any time they werent sitting and actively eating. The church where the saint preached has made a small museum covered with Ex Voti. While that delayed my first visit by several years, Ive been back to Naples many times since. I'm not a fan of Naples. Crammed with chaos, Naples is appalling and uniquely captivating at the same time. Naples offers the closest thing to reality travel in Western Europe: churning, fertile, and exuberant. Heresanother one of my favorite travel memories a reminder of whats waiting for you in Europeatthe other end of this crisis. Raffaele: The towers are very old from the Saracens' time. We immediately made a U-turn, stepped back into the station, and made a beeline for Greece. Even outdoors where masks are not required Id estimate about 20 to 30 percent of pedestrians were masked anyway (a higher ratio than what I typically saw indoors in London). From our home base in Sorrento, we explore the Amalfi Coast, stopping in the towns of Positano and Amalfi. But in the 1700s, when the coast was clear of pirate rule, Positano flourished again as a favorite under the Bourbon royal family. Rick: Okay the traditional sort of romantic life in the streets? Roberta: the temple of Maradona. Food Raffaele: Yes. Work on your tan as you float over hazelnut, walnut, chestnut, apricot, peach, kiwi, and fig trees, past a montage of tourists (mostly from cruise ships; when the grotto is closed as it often is they bring passengers here instead). Last December I stayed at the Hotel Art Resort on the third floor of the Galleria Umberto. Though Sorrento-based, they also do trips from Naples (more expensive). From the old center, an ancient lane zigzags down to Marina Grande Sorrento's historic harbor. . I suspect they are not all created equal, it may not hurt to ask to see more than one. It was an exciting, slightly scary time to be in London. While originally a place where the town's nobles met, today this is the club for working-class guys. Rick: The Saracen pirates? But this is a case when I hire a cabbie like Raffaele Monetti to be my driver and guide. Coming from cautious Seattle, where indoor masking was still required, I was shocked by how few masks I saw on arrival in London. The unique Veiled Christ marble statue here seems to change expression from suffering to peace as you look from Jesus' feet to his head. You are lucky if you can find a ramp to run your luggage down. Extremely easy to get a cab to train. Only one street in Positano allows motorized traffic the rest are steep pedestrian lanes. Rick: I can smell the limoncello. Rick: Basso living, what does that mean Basso? The area around the Galleria is quite tourist friendly and there are very good restaurants in the immediate vicinity. This is the clich of Italian life just like in the movies. Rick Steves Portugal (2023 Travel Guide) - amazon.com (In fact, Italy partially relaxed its restrictions just a few days ago, even since I got home.) This is serious. (I was surprised how many times they actually counted Uno, due, tre! The entry hole is small. The nearby Spanish Quarter is Naples at its rawest and most characteristic. . (One important side note: On April 1 just a few days after I flew home Italy relaxed some of its regulations for showing proof of vaccination. You name it, it occurs right on the streets today, as it has for centuries. The Mercure Hotel I stayed at is a chain in Europe, and was actually perfectly nice. Have read about Place in the Sun hostel. Positano's steep lanes are a way of life for the 4,000 hearty residents. Using traditional wood-burning ovens, Naples' pizzerias bake just the right combination of tomatoes, mozzarella, and fresh dough (soft and chewy, as opposed to Roman-style, which is thin and crispy). And St. Peters is just as spectacular when youre masked. Raffaele: Yes. With its breathtaking scenery, dramatically perched port towns, and historic ruins, the Amalfi is Italy's coast with the most. ), That said, Ive overcome my instinct to criticize or shame someone near me whochooses not to wear a mask, if its in accordance with local regulations. Stores bottle their own citrus treatsand they're generous with samples. Shipping & Returns. Italy. Even if weve had to postpone trips to Europe, I believe a daily dose of travel dreaming canactually begood medicine. It was very affordable. After visiting the temples at Paestum, we sail to the isle of Capri. To this day, numerous galleries feature the work of local artists. I snap a photo and suddenly people in each window and balcony are vying for another. more, Review collected in partnership with this hotel. This isn't a festival; it's just another night a celebration of community in the Mediterranean world. No sooner had I noticed this than an attendant went rushing over to remind them. I also skipped one of my absolute favorite London activities: eating in its many amazing restaurants. Just before reaching the harbor, you pass through an ancient Greek gate, a reminder that Marina Grande was always a separate town with its own proud residents. Italians venerate Mary, and Italian men also venerate their mothers. Wedged on a ledge under the mountains and over the Mediterranean, spritzed by lemon and olive groves, Sorrento is an attractive resort of 20,000 residents and, in summer, just as many tourists. Rick: Beautiful, look at the engineering here. Daily Dose of Europe: Naples - Rick Steves' Travel Blog (If you havent yet, be sure to follow my Facebook page to get all the latest updates.) We'll start with the southern Italian charms of Sorrento, taste traditional Italian food with a playful flair, drive along the dramatic Amalfi Coast enjoying its cliffside towns, and we'll stroll in the shadow of Greek temples at Paestum, and take a cruise to the seductive isle of Capri with its romantic Blue Grotto. But they do it anyway, with pride, for the greater good. In fact, the word "sorrento" comes from the Greek word for "siren." ), Being cautious was not easy, Ill admit. Given how difficult it is to get around Naples this is a big plus.Generous breakfast in lovely and bright 9th floor restaurant. The painting of Mary is said to have spoken, saying, "Posa, posa" (lay me down), causing the ship to glide safely to this harbor and the stricken pirates to become Christians. For the best view, climb the spiral stairs from the postcard desk. Even now, only one street in Positano allows motorized traffic; the rest are narrow pedestrian lanes. One wave populates six stories of balconies, each filling up with its own waving family. And some major sights (including Romes Colosseum) now require reservations, instead of just recommending them (as previously). Roberta: Life in the streets, yeah. Thanks for joining us. Good sized rooms, nice breakfast, unique location. Terms of Service | Privacy, Amalfi Coast, Italy: Illustrious Seaside Town, Capri, Italy: Pricey Towns and Priceless Views, Positano, Italy: Jewel of the Amalfi Coast. Last summer the trash was a huge problem. The vast Piazza Garibaldi facing the train station provides an off-putting welcome to those arriving by train. Then, with the unification of Italy in 1861, Naples fell from being an important political capital to just another provincial town. We hope to have you here again as our guest.Regards, This is the version of our website addressed to speakers of English in the United States. But get beyond this and Naples surprises the observant traveler with its good humor and decency. I remember my first visit as a wide-eyed 18-year-old: My travel buddy and I had stepped off the train into vast Piazza Garibaldi a paved hellhole until quite recently when a man in a white surgeons' gown approached me and said, "Please, we need blood for a dying baby." Widows sell cigarettes from plastic buckets. I would recommend Sorrento. This 13th-century palace recalls a rough and tumble age. Traffic is so heavy that private tour buses are only allowed to go southbound. And the caf crowd watches it all unfold. This topic has been automatically closed due to a period of inactivity. Anecdotally, I learned that the one-two punch of Omicron and the Ukraine invasion has led many travelers to book trips more last-minute than before. Raffaele: Yes, just a warning. To the ancient Greeks, places like Sorrento were the wild, wild west. 1 review 1 helpful vote Rick Steves' Sicily 11 years ago Save Anyone have feedback on Rick Steves' Best of Sicily in 10 days? In the 19th century, it was the haunt of Romantic Age aristocrats on their Grand Tour of Europe. And testing is affordable and widely available in most of Europe, making it less of a hassle than you might think. Peppe: Yeah. (I was too busy updating guidebooks to conduct a reliable sociological surveybut the results would have been fascinating.). The location of the hotel is fantastic, almost right on top of a metro station and walking distance to many of the important sites in Naples. I am traveling alone and need suggestions on places to stay. Antica Pizzeria da Michele is a favorite. Since ancient Greek times, the old city center has been split down the middle by a long, straight street called Spaccanapoli (split Naples). We are pleased that your stay was fine! Happy travels! Serene Sorrento is well-located, both as a springboard for regional sightseeing and as a fine place to simply stay and stroll. Rick: Thank you very much. I just love the food scene here, and normally I spend each evening in a trendy new hotspot in Soho or Shoreditch, to try it out for the book. But given my current risk-aversion, I mostly skipped indoor dining (especially when a place was crowded which the best places always are). Look at this cliff, from the water all the way up to the top; Roman emperors loved this, because it was easy to defend. It was a great location right off Via Toledo and across the st. from the Teatro Di San Carlo. Grazie. Years later, arriving at Naples' port on a cruise, I watched as some new friends walked off the ship and through the terminal, then peered into Naples' clogged streetsand turned right around, much like I had years before. During the peak season, many resort hotels require "half pension." While prices are steep, the window shopping's free. It's clear to me why Roman emperors chose this island as their holiday escape, and why today so many travelers include the Amalfi Coast in their Italian travel plans. Hoping to have you here again as our guest, we send you ourBest regards. $142 per night Check availability Eurostars Hotel Excelsior Hotel in Lungomare Caracciolo, Naples Overlooking the Bay of Naples, Hotel Excelsior features a terrace and a rooftop restaurant. In the end, this was one of my favorite, most successful trips in years. Light a candle at one of Naples' powerful houses of worship along this strip, such as the Baroque Cappella Sansevero chapel. St. Andrew is near and dear to the people of Amalfi because he's credited with saving the town from certain pillage and plunder back in the 1500s during a pirate raid. Italians remain as vigilant and strict as London is loose. After demonstrating the freshness of his rolls with a playful squeeze, he assembles the components, laying on a careful pavement of salami, bringing over a fluffy mozzarella ball as if performing a kidney transplant, slicing a tomato with rapid-fire machine precision, and lovingly pitting the olives by hand. Or leave the tourists and hustlers for better swimming (and cheaper beach chairs) at Fornillo Beach, a 10-minute walk away. This much-adored statue celebrates Giuseppe Moscati, a Christian doctor famous for helping the poor. By the way, Italians dont wear masks because they enjoy it. Roberta: We love soccer In Italy soccers like a religion, in Napoli especially. Rick produces a best-selling guidebook series, a public television series, and a public radio show, and organizes small-group tours that take over 30,000 travelers to Europe annually. Couples artfully make love on Vespas while surrounded by more fights and smiles per cobblestone than anywhere else in Italy. Another change: Most museums have temporarily done away with audioguides, for obvious reasons. The Blue Grotto experience is more than just visiting a cave. On my visit, they didnt even have any in-person ticket windows open at all; if you just show up, youll wind up standing around outside the turnstiles, booking a ticket on your smartphone. Constructed in 450 B.C, it's a textbook example of the Doric style. Where Do You Find the Wow in Your Travels? Today the shipyards, where its powerful galleys were built a thousand years ago, house tourist shops, and the former glory of Amalfi's pint-sized empire is remembered on this tiled map. This facility was very comfortable and well located for touring. Lock in the lowest price from these sites. He then finishes it off with a celebratory drizzle of the best oil. The same technology is now common throughout Europe, though in Italy, I found cash was still more widely used. Boat people: New York. Watching the police try to enforce traffic sanity is almost comical, in this gritty city. Il Buco's owner, Peppe, designs his menu around whatever's fresh, and he lovingly explains each course to his guests. Roberta: Yeah, it's like a small apartment, 2, 3 bedrooms, 4,5, 6, 7,8, 9 people join the family. On February 24 a few days after my arrival England celebrated what some cheekily called Freedom Dayeven as their sovereign still had the sniffles. where to stay in Naples - Rick Steves Travel Forum Staff was also friendly. Wearing a medical-grade mask gave me peace of mind, even if about half of my fellow theater-goers were unmasked. In the south of Europe, Italy juts into the Mediterranean Sea. The hotel is quiet, updated and well run by friendly helpful staff. Surprising visitors, right in the town center, is an inviting lemon grove. My travel buddy and I had stepped off the train into vast Piazza Garibaldi. Sorrento Travel Guide Resources & Trip Planning Info by Rick Steves Boat people: Hey, Rick. April 2022 - Camerons Travels | Rick Steves Europe But in 1343, this tiny powerhouse was devastated by a tsunami. This was the case even in my first stop in Italy, Naples. These provide insulation cool in the summerwarm in the winter. Here, the streets laid out in the 16th century for the Spanish military barracks outside the city walls are unbelievably narrow (and cool in summer), and the buildings rise five stories high. Enticing dishes are served with enthusiasm to hungry locals right on the pier. Rick: Hey, where're you from? We're lucky today there's a little chop, but dinghies are squeezing in. This business uses tools provided by Tripadvisor (or one of its official Review Collection Partners) to encourage and collect guest reviews, including this one. Strolling Naples is an adventure sport. Inside Pisas Duomo, which was nearly empty of visitors, I spotted two elderly tourists who apparently forgot to don their masks. Very contemporary venue, stunning rooftop views from bar and breakfast area. Chatting with Londoners and Italians, it was clear that this was weighing very heavily on many hearts. Other than indoor dining, I still did everything I would have done in pre-pandemic times, but with a good mask on. And now that Im home, everyones asking the same question: Whats it like traveling right now, as Europe emerges from the pandemic? This and other treasures of the cathedral are well displayed in the adjacent museum. Italy Hotel in Naples Hotel in Naples Jump to bottom Posted by morenojosephine1 on 03/09/22 06:32 PM I would appreciate suggestions for a Rick Steve's-esq hotel for an overnight in Naples/Napoli. (Tellingly, this was already the second Freedom Day in as many years.). In Pisa, one of the main civic buildings flew three flags: the European Union, Italy, and not Pisa but Ukraine. Most of the year, it's atmospherically littered with colorful umbrellas amid a commotion of fishermen, recreational boats shuttling visitors in and out, and local Romeos practicing their craft. Dear guest,Thank you for your kind review, we are glad to read that everything has been perfect during your stay. And the evening before that, I was hanging out in Lucca, wondering where I should get my COVID test. And it represents just a snapshot in time; this blog post will go stale remarkably fast. You can order it from your favorite local bookseller; get it at the Rick Steves Europe Travel Store; or buy a copy at Amazon.com (paperback or Kindle edition). Moments later, a stylish couple on a bike rolls by she sits on the handlebars, giggling as she faces her man, hands around his neck as he cranes to see where theyre going. And they warned with a fire on the top of the tower. Even so, Italian men have built into their lives women-free zones. And all the people just go from the beach up. keywords The icon-like Black Madonna was likely brought here from Constantinople by monks in the 12th century. The Amalfi Coast is chaotic, scenic, in-love-with-life Italy at its best.
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